How to Fix a Leaking Faucet: Complete DIY Guide + When to Call a Plumber
A dripping faucet doesn't sound like a big deal. One drip per second doesn't feel like much — until you do the math. The EPA estimates that a faucet dripping once per second wastes over 3,000 gallons per year. That's enough to take 180 showers. In drought-prone states like Texas, California, and Arizona, that water waste translates directly to higher bills and real environmental impact.
The good news: most leaking faucets are fully DIY-fixable. You don't need a plumber for the majority of dripping faucet repairs. What you need is to identify which type of faucet you have, buy the right parts (usually $5–$30 at any hardware store), and follow the right sequence of steps.
This guide covers all four common faucet types: compression, ball, cartridge, and ceramic disk. We'll walk you through diagnosis, parts, step-by-step repair, cost estimates, and the scenarios where you genuinely do need to pick up the phone.
Most faucet repairs take 30–90 minutes for a first-timer. If you've done it before, plan 15–30 minutes. The hardest part is usually finding the right replacement part before you start.
Step 1: Identify Your Faucet Type
Before you buy anything or touch a wrench, you need to know what kind of faucet you're dealing with. Different faucet types fail in different ways and require different parts.
Compression Faucets
These are the oldest style — two separate handles (hot and cold) that you tighten down to stop water flow. If turning the handle feels like you're physically squeezing the water off, it's a compression faucet. These are still common in homes built before 1980. The drip is almost always a worn rubber washer at the bottom of the stem.
Ball Faucets
Single-handle faucets where the handle moves in multiple directions (left/right for temp, up/down for volume) — common in kitchens. A small rotating ball inside controls flow. When these drip, it's usually the springs, seats, or O-rings inside the ball assembly. Delta popularized this design.
Cartridge Faucets
Both single-handle and two-handle versions exist. The key indicator: the handle moves smoothly up and down (or a quarter turn) to control flow. Inside, a cartridge — a self-contained cylinder — does the work. These are the easiest to repair because you replace the whole cartridge instead of diagnosing internal parts. Moen uses cartridges almost exclusively.
Ceramic Disk Faucets
High-end faucets with a wide, cylindrical body. Single lever moves side to side. Inside, two ceramic discs with holes control flow. These rarely drip; when they do, the ceramic discs need cleaning or replacement. American Standard and many European brands use this design.
Step 2: Gather Your Tools and Parts
Don't start this job until you have everything you need. Running to the hardware store halfway through with your water shut off is frustrating and avoidable.
Tools you'll need (for any faucet type):
- Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Needle-nose pliers
- Allen wrench set (for set screws under handles)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or WD-40) for stuck parts
- Plumber's grease (silicone-based only — petroleum-based grease destroys rubber)
- Bucket and old towels
Parts to buy (varies by faucet type):
- Compression: Replacement rubber washers and O-rings — buy an assortment kit ($8–12). Match the washer size to what you remove.
- Ball: Replacement kit specific to your brand ($12–25). Kits from Delta, Moen, or generic include the ball, springs, seats, and O-rings.
- Cartridge: Replacement cartridge for your specific model ($12–35). Bring the old one to the store or look up your faucet model number.
- Ceramic Disk: Replacement disc cylinder or cleaning supplies ($15–45). These are the most expensive parts.
Before you remove anything, turn off the water supply. Most faucets have shut-off valves under the sink — turn them clockwise until they stop. If there are no shut-off valves (older homes), you'll need to shut off the main water supply to the house. After shutting off, turn the faucet on to release pressure and drain residual water from the lines.
Step 3: Repair by Faucet Type
Fixing a Compression Faucet
Remove the handle
Pop off the decorative cap on top of the handle (it's usually just pressed on), then unscrew the screw underneath with a Phillips screwdriver. Wiggle the handle off — it may be stuck from mineral buildup. A sharp upward pull usually works. Don't force it; use penetrating oil if needed.
Remove the packing nut and stem
You'll see a large hexagonal nut below the handle. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew it counterclockwise. Once the nut is off, you can pull out the stem (it may screw out counterclockwise or pull straight up, depending on the design).
Replace the rubber washer
At the bottom of the stem, you'll find a rubber washer held in place by a brass screw. This washer is almost certainly your problem — it gets compressed and worn over thousands of on/off cycles. Remove the old washer, match the size to your replacement, coat the new one lightly in plumber's grease, and install it.
Check and replace O-rings
Look at the stem itself for two rubber O-rings around the middle. If the leak is coming from around the base of the handle (not the spout), these O-rings are the culprit. Pull them off carefully with a pick, coat replacements in plumber's grease, and roll them on.
Reassemble and test
Thread the stem back in, tighten the packing nut (firm but not gorilla-tight), reattach the handle, restore water supply, and test. No drip? You're done.
Fixing a Ball Faucet
Ball faucets have more components, so buy a complete repair kit for your brand. The kit will have everything labeled.
Remove the handle and cap
Look for a set screw on the side or underside of the handle — this requires an Allen wrench (usually 1/8" or 3/16"). Remove it and lift the handle off. Underneath you'll find a chrome collar; unscrew it by hand or with slip-joint pliers (wrap jaws with tape to protect the finish).
Remove and inspect the cam, packing, and ball
Lift out the plastic cam and packing, then the ball itself. The ball has slots and holes — inspect it for scoring or pitting. If it's roughed up, it needs replacing (usually included in the kit). If it looks fine, clean it and reuse it.
Replace springs and seats
Inside the body you'll see two small rubber seats with springs beneath them. Use needle-nose pliers to lift each seat and spring out. Install new ones from the kit — the spring narrow end goes in first, then the seat on top.
Replace O-rings on the body
Cut the old O-rings off with a utility knife or pick them off with a needle. Coat the new ones in plumber's grease and roll them into their grooves.
Reassemble, using the kit diagram
Good repair kits include an exploded diagram. Follow it. Replace the ball (with the pin slot aligned), then the cam and packing, then the collar. Tighten the collar until it stops rotating on the ball — this is a calibration step, not just tightening. Replace the handle, restore water, and test.
Fixing a Cartridge Faucet
This is the easiest repair. You're replacing one part: the cartridge.
Remove the handle and identify the cartridge brand
Pry off the decorative cap, unscrew the handle screw, and remove the handle. You'll see the cartridge — a plastic cylinder usually held by a clip or single screw. Write down the brand name stamped on it or take a photo before removing it.
Remove the retaining clip and pull the cartridge
Use needle-nose pliers to pull the U-shaped retaining clip straight up. Then grip the cartridge stem with pliers and pull straight up. Note the orientation — cartridges must go back in the same direction or your hot and cold will be reversed.
Take the old cartridge to the hardware store
Don't guess the part number. Bring the old cartridge and match it exactly. Moen cartridges in particular have many models that look similar but aren't interchangeable. Moen also has a lifetime warranty — call them and they may send a replacement cartridge for free.
Install the new cartridge and reassemble
Press the new cartridge in with the ears aligned (check your model — usually the ears face forward). Press the retaining clip back in. Reinstall the handle. Turn on the water and test: check for leaks and verify hot is on the left, cold on the right.
Fixing a Ceramic Disk Faucet
Ceramic disk faucets are durable — but when they fail, the repair is typically cleaning the discs rather than replacing parts.
Remove the handle and lift out the cylinder
Pull off the decorative cap, unscrew the handle screw, remove the handle, then unscrew the ceramic disc cylinder (usually 2–3 screws). Lift it straight out.
Clean the ceramic discs
Use a soft cloth and white vinegar or a non-abrasive scrubbing pad to clean the flat ceramic surfaces. Mineral deposits from hard water are the most common culprit. Never use steel wool or abrasive cleaners — you'll scratch the ceramic seal surfaces.
Replace neoprene seals if needed
On the underside of the cylinder, you'll see rubber seals (usually 3). If these are cracked or hardened, replace them. Take the cylinder to the hardware store to match them.
Reassemble slowly — don't overtighten
Ceramic discs crack if over-torqued. Snug the cylinder screws down gently. Turn the water on slowly — ceramic disc faucets must have water turned on very slowly after reassembly to avoid cracking the discs from sudden pressure.
Cost Estimates: DIY vs. Calling a Plumber
| Repair Type | DIY Parts Cost | Plumber Cost | DIY Savings |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression faucet (washer + O-rings) | $8–$15 | $150–$250 | $135–$235 |
| Ball faucet (complete kit) | $15–$30 | $175–$275 | $145–$245 |
| Cartridge replacement | $15–$40 | $175–$300 | $135–$260 |
| Ceramic disc cleaning | $0–$15 | $200–$350 | $185–$350 |
| Full faucet replacement (DIY) | $50–$300 (faucet price) | $300–$600 | $100–$300 |
Plumber costs sourced from ServiceRig's contractor pricing data across Texas, Florida, Arizona, and California markets as of Q1 2026. Labor rates vary by region; add $25–50 for emergency/weekend calls.
When to Call a Plumber: Know Your Limits
Most faucet drips are DIY territory. But some situations genuinely require a licensed plumber, and trying to DIY them can make things significantly worse — and more expensive.
The leak is at the base of the faucet. This usually means the supply lines or connections to the wall are leaking — not just the faucet mechanism. If you see water pooling under the sink or staining inside the cabinet, the issue may be beyond the faucet.
The shut-off valves don't fully stop water flow. If you close the under-sink valves and water still flows, the valves are failing. Don't work on the faucet with active water pressure. You'll need the main shut off and a plumber to replace the valves.
There's visible corrosion or green/white mineral buildup on supply lines. Corroded supply lines can burst unexpectedly under pressure. A plumber should inspect and replace them.
You have low water pressure throughout the house. This isn't a faucet problem. It's a pressure regulator, main line, or municipal supply issue.
The faucet is more than 20 years old. At some point, replacement is cheaper than repair. Parts for older faucets may be discontinued, and a new fixture can be installed in the same time it takes to diagnose an aging one.
Pro Tips From Contractors
Before you remove anything, take photos from multiple angles. You'll thank yourself when you're staring at a pile of parts and can't remember the order they came out.
Call Moen's customer service at 1-800-BUY-MOEN before buying a replacement cartridge. If you have a Moen faucet, they often send replacement parts free under their lifetime warranty — no receipt required, no questions asked.
In compression and ball faucets, the "seat" (the metal surface the washer presses against) can become pitted and rough over time. Even a new washer will drip against a damaged seat. Use a seat wrench ($8) to remove it, take it to the hardware store to match, and replace it while you have everything apart.
If you're already inside the faucet, replace every rubber component in sight — O-rings, washers, seals. They cost cents. Reassembling with partially-worn rubber just means coming back in a year to do the same job again.
The Bottom Line
A leaking faucet is one of the most DIY-friendly plumbing repairs you can do. With $10–30 in parts and an hour of your time, you can eliminate a drip that wastes thousands of gallons per year and raises your water bill. The key steps are: identify your faucet type, buy the right parts, shut off the water before you start, take photos as you go, and replace every rubber component while you're in there.
If you run into corroded valves, leaks behind the wall, or a faucet that's simply past its useful life — that's when it makes sense to call a licensed plumber. A good plumber can diagnose and fix the problem in under an hour at a flat rate, get it done right, and save you the headache of a repeat visit.
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